Wednesday, June 7th, 1882

Wednesday. June 7th. Barque Sarah.
A half and half night and to the complete amazement of everybody awoke to find ourselves in a dead calm between Graciosa and San Jorge. Terceira in sight at our rear. We have drifted with the tide – a sapphire blue sea, San Jorge is very long and narrow and rugged near by. We have been in sight of Pico ever since we left St Michaels but have seemed to come no nearer to it. We have been betting as to when we shall get in – each of us taking two hours in the day – mine between 4.30 & 5.30. Mr Adams has taught me the names of the sails. Mr Sanisberry has been raising fun and mischief all day. He read [?] a Chinese Romance in rhymes read by Pauline Piston at the last Literary Club. It was quite bright[?] All calling to me to look out for a school of porpoises ahead. I never saw anything more beautiful than this blue, blue sea with these four misty, pink islands on the horizon – Pico beyond, San Jorge and Fayal just coming into view.

Later. Had a little talk with Mr Sanisberry this evening. He gave me advise about [?], which I was sorry to have needed but shall certainly take. He was in a perfect rage and seemed to know the gossip of the Sarah pretty thoroughly. Mr Townsend hurt his back playing match[?] games.

Tuesday, June 6th, 1882

Tuesday. June 6th. Barque Sarah.
We hoped to be able to sail early this morning but a load of potatoes failing to arrive we were delayed until nearly six P.M. It was good fun watching the boat loads of sailors and steerage passengers & the dilapidated looking $10. a month Custom House officials about the ship. Mr Sanisberry came aboard at noon and brought me a large Fayal basket of delicious strawberries. We hulled them and made a refrigerator out of a pan of water, and sugared them preparatory to an evening’s spread. After supper we had a game of poker, I holding Mr Adams hand – he won. The usual ad[?]. We had our strawberries, they sang, I took a walk with Mr Adams and to bed in hopes of Fayal tomorrow.

Monday, June 5th, 1882

Monday. June 5th Off Terceira. Barque Sarah.
A warm, lovely day – I lounged on deck all the morning, reading an interesting novel, Matrimony by Norris, talking with Mr Adams and watching the lights and shadows on Terceira. It is a beautiful island, the most beautiful of all. At 3 P.M. we started off for Angra to see a bull-run which takes place there every Monday after Trinity. The entire business portion of the  town was deserted and we went to the back part of the town on a hill where there were crowds, women and children in bright colors seated on the walls, in the gardens and windows and doorways. The streets were full of men and boys, hundreds of them, carrying long poles with round heads, steel tops

It was a gay scene – a great variety of peasant costume and everybody in excitement, - such a scene as could only be found among pleasure loving people, in a Southern Country. Mr Sanisberry, Mr. Eifert and Mr De Castro, the Consul joined us and the latter found a look out for Mrs Robertson and me in a friends house opposite a square. Soon after we seated ourselves amid old dames who tried in vain to talk to us and young ones with gay bandannas, little children not more than five years old addressing each other every minute with “Senorita, Si, Senorita”, and the head of the house who roared like a bull with excitement, the Confuru[?] Fornesca surrounded by a crowd of men in the square and everybody passing – there was a great rushing and down the hillside came the bull who had a long rope attached to him which was carried by a half dozen men – Everybody who did not tear to a shelter rushed at the bull and goaded him with sticks, or beat him or yelled or tried to blind him by throwing white and red cloths in his face. In this way with shouts from the spectators the bull tore through the street for a mile or two, occasionally losing a man, ,coming over a stone wall unexpectedly in to a clump of men who would struggle to get away. Sometimes the brute would stop and look first one way and then another uncertain where to make his plunge and then everybody’s excitement was redoubled. Mrs Robertson was wild for fear her husband would be hurt. There were four runs, different bulls each time and there were long intervals between the runs. It is an aimless sort of sport. The fun is in seeing the people. The bulls were rather dull. This is the only island where bull fights are held and the opening one of the season begins on Thursday. We saw the proprietor of the arena – He had short, tight blue jacket & knee [?}, the former had long loops in the button holes, a round hat with pompoms on the side and a stick with gold mounting on one end and strap on the other. Some of the men had wide red sashes and some had colored handkerchiefs tied over their little caps to keep them on and under their chins. We came back to ship, tired and sleepy, but we stayed up until 10 o’c, talking and singing and imbibing. The steerage passengers were all on deck playing their violas and singing the Portuguese dances.

Sunday, June 4th, 1882

Trinity Sunday. June 4th Off Terceira. Barque Sarah.
About ten o’c this morning Dr & Mrs R., Mr Townsend, Mr Adams & I took a boat and went ashore. I bought some silk handkerchiefs and Mrs R. & I went to one of the churches while the men were off in search of horses & carriage. The church we visited was the prettiest I have seen in the islands – Azorean – One church here is like another – but in this one, the gilding was duller and the work rather good, the coloring [?], the proportions of the building better – there were some tolerable paintings too. The service was just beginning and there were people coming in constantly – a great many fine looking men who might be mistaken for New Yorkers or Englishmen. Angra has an air of enterprise and a more cosmopolitan appearance than any town we have seen except Ponta Delgada. The are putting up new buildings and renovating the streets and laying out a little park. We noticed that the power class of men wear a pair of linked buttons in their shirts very pretty in design, gold like this

We tried to find some but could not. The gold work comes from Lisbon and the silver filaque[?] work also. The men wear their pants so very long that they come to the ground in the back –

The Dr., Mr Townsend & Mr Adams found some fine riding horses and Mrs Robertson & I were astonished at being put in to a regular New England “carry-all”. The driver knew so little of driving that he could not turn the carriage without getting out and turning it around with his hands, and Mr Eifert (a German whom Sanisberry introduced to use, having business in the Islands – we met him at the Luso) whom we took in as interpreter had not enough spirit to manage the man. He was as obstinate as a mule, determined to make us go as he wished and we were dragged up and down hill through the environs of Angra, at a gallop, expecting to be upset every minute. Mr Adams was in advance racing with Mr Townsend who tried to cross his pathway going around a corner. Mr Adams foot caught in the stonewall, he was thrown off and fell on his hand bruising it severely. He suffered terribly and could get no relief from the bottle of hand[?] the Dr. poured on it. We went to the Hotel Terceirinse[?] for dinner and met Mr Sanisberry there. We had some head given t us at one of the Holy Ghost’s feasts and with that fried eggs and cheese we managed to keep ourselves alive. We could not eat the cabbage soup and other Portuguese dishes. Mr Adams hand troubled him so that we decided to come back to Sarah. The Captain had ordered some dinner saved for us so we had our regular ship rations, Plum-duff included. I vowed a vow not to go on shore again if possible with the same noisy crowd again. We sat out on  deck until late talking and singing and drinking lemonade. My appetite is something enormous. The Dr. is the only one who can begin to keep up to it.

Saturday, June 3rd, 1882

Saturday June 3rd Off Terceira Barque Sarah.
Heard the name of my adored Pico early this morning so tumbled out to fine her on the horizon, towering above the clouds and snow capped. San Jorge was visible at the same time and later Terceira. We had a change of wind at noon and sailed in to Terceira just before supper. I have slept on deck nearly all day and eaten oranges at intervals. A lovely evening. We are near enough to shore to hear the land birds and the June freshness is delightful to see. We watched a beautiful sunset from the top of the house and Mrs Robertson, Mr Adams and I sat there until 10 o’c watching the stars and moon come out and the fireworks on shore. It is still a feasting time here. 

Friday, June 2nd, 1882

Friday June 2nd Barque Sarah.
I awoke this morning, supposing myself happy and before I finished dressing learned the inconstancy of earthly bliss: I retired to the bumpkin aft until Mr Adams carried me by main force to the waist and there I sat all day long, utterly wretched. I could hardly hold my head up. Mrs Robertson & Townsend shared my misery and the Jewesses were in the last stage. Have been beating against headwinds all day with no apparent progress. “Who would sell a farm and go to sea”, Have existed on Dr Robertson’s beef, tea and oranges. Robertson & Townsend are looking over the ropes and [?] them.

Thursday, June 1st, 1882

Thursday June 1st “Barque Sarah”
A shopping expedition on donkey back this morning and at 11 o’c I came aboard ship. The Captain’s Jewesses are here, and a Portuguese, Bensaude with sick son. Two staterooms have been built in the waist since we left. The boat has been painted and is in fine shape. Mr Adams has my wine. I am to have Mama’s room to Fayal and Townsend takes mine. Kent stays at Ponta Delgada, “thank God for so much” as Silva says as the steerage passengers came up late. Dr & Mrs Robertson & Mr Townsend & I sat in the waist after supper and I walked with Mr Adams until late. A full moon. The table is much better than when we came over, tender beef and well cooked and better bread and fresh water.