Monday. May 29th. On board Steamer Luso. Angra. Terceira.
We had a comfortable night thought the rats held high carnival in the quarters. My state room was full of small feathers off my turban, Mr Kent’s boots were nibbled and his shoe lacings gone. We had coffee from the steward and some of Mrs Dabneys rolls which she had given to Mr Sanisberry, for early breakfast – then we had difference a la fourchette[?] later – and went ashore when the rain disappeared. Terceira is next to St Michaels the largest island and Angra was formerly the capital of the Azores. The military governor is here yet. The harbor is shaped something like that of Horta but is without the firchue[?] of coloring and abruptness of Porta Pino. There are several Spanish fortifications less interesting than more at Horta. The town is larger and has some fine streets and some shabby ones. There are some very nice stores, huge churches, a public garden just being laid out, on a backhill, a very prominent monument to Don Pedro IV. There seems to be a greater distinction than at Horta between the well-to-do and very poor. We saw many people who looked more peasant like. Once in the town it is very pretty as it lies up and down hills. I have not seen as many signs of ecclesiastical control anywhere as here. There seems to be chapels at every corner and crosses on every other building. There are two kinds of cloak peculiar to this island, each hideous and one very uncanny, covering the face almost entirely.
The former is usually brown, the latter always black. The poor men wear a little cap, dk blue broadcloth lined with red, worn on the back of the head. Its shape is like this
The donkeys have a saddle which has a little railing back
The water jugs are of different shape from those at Fayal. The Fayal jugs are shaped
The Terceira jugs have a larger opening
and there are others like this
They also have absurd little wheel barrows with one small wheel in front
There are very large chimneys on every house which gives a very different effect to the houses from those at Fayal. The chimneys are like this
Tiles on the top. The tiles on the roofs project some distance and are painted pink underneath. As a whole the town seems older than Horta. The women have the reputation of being pretty and we saw more pretty faces in the few hours we were there than in all the time we have been at Horta, but the women cannot compare with those at Flores. There are horses here and better looking donkeys and mules. We saw several bookstores. On the top of a high hill was the place where the bull-fights are witnessed – circular stone (like the stone walls) building and we thought we could see a row of spectator’s seats around the top. We took a long rid through one or two villages and into the heart of the country. We saw a great many large fig trees, some [?] orange & nespras, few flowers and on the hill tops real bona fide woods, pine and American looking trees. Some of the valleys too were full of trees, the brooks seemed dry and everything gave me – the others did not seem to notice it – the impression of a cool climate. We stopped at house where wooden shoes were being made, to take a drink of wine at a shop and bought some cookies and fed the children with candy. Each child kissed it’s hand to you as a sign of gratitude. Their manners were charming.
We dined at the Hotel Terceira a dirty place where we had our first thoroughly Portuguese dinner. There was everything on the table at once as is the Portuguese custom. There were two soup tureens containing all kinds of vegetables & herbs, like cabbage & mint and a spoonful from each was put in to your soup plate – then we had a dish containing salt pork, corn-beef, sausage and liver. Course No 2 then a boiled beef with tomato sauce, peas were served with it. No 3 – was roast veal with potatoes – No 4 walnuts and nespras, and we had Pico wine. We played Whist after dinner. Then starting to the Bull fight, which I was especially desirous of seeing, found that our steamer was going to leave too soon for us to see anything of it. We were disgusted. Mr Sanisberry came to the pier to see us off at 5 o’c. He seemed to feel very sorry to say goodbye and I was more son. He is such a splendid fellow. We hope to meet him again on our return by the Sara. He told me last night all about his engagement and his business affairs, and of the noble deeds of Mr Dabney & his son – of how they recently saved five lives at the risk of losing their own, etc.