Friday, July 17, 2015

List of Expenses

[List of expenses during the trip]
May 10th Flores.
Being carried to Island .38
Child .25
Boy at Gardens .25

Fayal May 14th
Custom House .16
Boat .80
Basket .30
Donkey ride .38
Lace scarf .92
Photos 1.88
Bowl  .16
Bowl .04
Pau[?] .3
Fez .36
Bandanna .50
Scarf for Auntie 1.
Tour rides 1.44
Hat 1.36
P[?] .36
Oranges .36
Fare to St Michael 8.50
Stamps .10
Ride .50
Terceira .50
Ride .25
Terceira cap .50
Crate of Oranges 2.50
Seven Cities 1.50
Tobacco Cases .48
Board 2.40
Boat .12
Potter 3 pieces .16
Wine 4.
Carriage .50
Boats at Terceira 2 .50
D[?] .50
Cake .90
Bet 1.25
Washing 1.68
View of Pico .40
Tintype 1.50
Towel 1.50
3 baskets .70
Pottery .09
Hamper 2.
Sofa 4.50
Cloth for [?] 1.25
6 baskets 1.44
[blank] .18
4 pieces Pottery 1.75
Fez .23
Board Bill at Fayal 21.97
[Total] 75.
Fare to Azores & Re[?] 110
[Total] $185.

[This is the last entry in the journal, other than some brief notes on the history of the islands] 

Thursday, July 16, 2015

At Sea!

At Sea!
From Boston to Flores. 10 days
From Flores to Fayal 14 days
From Fayal to Terceira – Str Luso 6 hours
Terceira to St Michaels – Str Luso 8 hours
St Michaels to Fayal 7 days
Fayal to Flores 4 days
Flores to Boston 28 days
[Total] 53 days.

Voyage from Boston to Fayal 14 days
Voyage from Fayal to Boston 32 days

Wednesday, July 15, 2015

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Friday, July 14th, 1882

Friday July 14th 75 miles from Boston. Bark Sarah.
Another fine day. Signaled reserve cutter this morning before breakfast and took flour aboard. The officer brought ten or twelve newspapers so we had quite a feast. Everybody was in great excitement. Have been ahead of the man of war all day going at snails pace. A fine three masted schooner passed very near in the afternoon, the prettiest vessel we have seen. Clouding up at sunset, prospect of wind. Portland lights visible in the evening. Out til late with Miss Smith.

Monday, July 13, 2015

Thursday, July 13th, 1882

Thursday July 13th Off Cape Ann. Barque Sarah.
A dense fog all the morning, clearing towards afternoon, 4 to 5 knots an  hour. Plum duff. A coast steamer crossed our bow at dinner time Mr Adams packed my pottery in my hamper. The Captain saw 94 vessels on the horizon at sunset. Miss Smith, Mr Wallach & I sat out until 11.30 P.M. Monhegan Is light  & another in sight. Stars out.

Sunday, July 12, 2015

Wednesday, July 12th, 1882

Wednesday. July 12th Off Mt Desert Rock.
“A dre-em of a da-ay”. Last night was the “nastiest” we have had  quote Mr Silva, a dense fog and any number of vessels about us. The fog horn going all night. We had a great joke on Mr Kent whom Mr Wallach found sleeping in his life preserver. Fog cleared about 4 a.m & left us becalmed. The warmest day we have had since leaving Flores. 37 fishing vessels on the horizon at breakfast time. We took 3 barrels flower & some mackerel from them. In the afternoon there was an excitement over a rumor that the steerage were going to raise a mutiny because they have been cut down on bread. It is all talk I suppose. Mr Adams has promised to make rig a miniature ship for me on his next voyage. In the evening, Miss Smith, Mrs R., Mr Townsend & Adams sat out until 10 o’c reminiscensing [sic] over our trip and singing, Miss S. & I are very blue at the prospect of leaving Sarah & getting home, Mr Adams was very grumpy also. He gave us our Stingaringes [sic] in [?].

Saturday, July 11, 2015

Tuesday, July 11th, 1882

Tuesday. July 11th. Bay of Fundy Barque Sarah
Fog and cold and choppy seas. 4 to 5 knots and hour. The fishing vessels appearing on all sides from the fog, a very pretty sight. Whist tournament going on all day.

Friday, July 10, 2015

Monday, July 10th, 1882

Monday. July 10th Barque Sarah.
Off Nova Scotia
“A dre-em of a da-ay”. Becalmed all the morning. A light breeze in the afternoon. Can see the Nova Scotia coast – passed a bark and several fishing vessels, from one we took 125 fresh cod. Can see the mackerel fleet in the distance – Beautiful sea and clouds – The Captain caught three cod & a huge cat fish. We are cut down on bread, cornbread & molasses. Mr Adams has finished his little bark and presented it to Miss Smith. The Dr. in search of the “elixir vitae”. Miss Smith found her Flores “mash”, Antoine Susa in the steerage today for the first time. Played Whist in the morning, sat on the Spanker boom with Mrs Lee, Miss Smith all the afternoon while Mrs Dr. read Jules Verne’s  “The Tribulations of a Chinaman.” Played Whist in the evening. I am willing to sell my farm & go to sea after such a day. We have seen several beautiful mirages.

Thursday, July 9, 2015

Sunday, July 9th, 1882

Sunday. 9th July. Barque Sarah.
Contrary winds. Last Plum Duff. Hailed a fishing vessel and bought some salt cod which made a good supper.

Wednesday, July 8, 2015

Tuesday, July 7, 2015

Friday, July 7th, 1882

Friday 7th July. Barque Sarah
Becalmed all day – towards evening fog. Were nearly run down by a steamer going to Boston.

Saturday, July 4, 2015

Tuesday, July 4th, 1882

Tuesday – 4th July – 650 miles from Boston.
A fine day, cold & clear, making about 5 knots an hour, two points off our course. Passed steamer bound for Halifax from England early this morning. When we came on deck after breakfast found the deck decorated with flags – I celebrated by finishing work on my porpoise jaw and whale’s tooth and learning Fayal embroidery of Mrs Lemey[?]. We had plum duff and kidney stew for dinner and strawberry preserves & cake for tea with unlimited lemonade and stingaree [stingray] in the evening. The sunset was the most glorious I ever saw anywhere. The whole heavens were ablaze – even in the East there was a flush of rose-color with a double rainbow over it. The sea was a gen d’arme blue in the East and in the West darker with flashes of gold on the tops of the waves. Every body was wild – the men went to the main top to see a second sunset. At 9 P.M. we had rockets and blue light – Then Mr Lee & I made 9 points at Whist against Miss Smith & Mrs Lee. Mr Silva very ill with bronchitis. As I write 10.30 P.M. the wind is East and we are making 8 knots – everybody is in good spirits over it and don’t complain tonight even though the Bilge water is “a-bilging” at a tremendous rate. We have dubbed Mr Lee, “The Whist Fiend”. Mr Wallach & I left in the dining saloon – all the rest turned in.

[No journal entries for July 5th and 6th]

Thursday, July 2, 2015

Sunday, July 2nd, 1882

Sunday. July 2nd. 700 m. from Boston
A fiendish night, rolling from one side to another in our bunks and listening to the ship’s belongings banging about. I threw out my hot water bottle on to the floor about the middle of the night and there it careened with the tooth brush, mug and my bag. The door could not be kept shut. Miss Smith was dancing [?] [?] is every five minutes. There was a regular hurricane in Mr Wallach’s room and when a big lurch sent everything over I looked out and saw 3 [?] wine glasses hanging by the skin of their teeth to the frame over the dining table, some one picking up the debris from our bunks and state room floors. Grace called through the partition that she had not a wink of sleep. Mr Wallach went on deck at 2 a.m.

This morning very cold & fa[?] wind – a horrid smell.

[No journal entry for July 3rd]

Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Saturday, July 1st, 1882

Saturday. July 1st At Sea.
Another rainy, foggy, rough day. The Captain says this would be a hurricane sea in the winter. Miss Smith & I lay in the tarpaulin covering to the boats and were covered with spray. In the afternoon a squall and the sea rougher as night came on. We have been losing all day. Cold as middle of winter.

Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Friday, June 30th, 1882

Friday. June 30th At Sea!
More icebergs!
Headwinds, dense fog and rain and cold. About the latitude of Halifax. While at dinner there was a fearful cry and rushing of the steerage passengers, then all the cabiners tore out after the Captain to the waist with the conviction that an iceberg was upon us. The scene was really distressing. Clara was yelling “help” and crying in the most wretched tone of voice. Mrs her mother was wringing her hands, Mrs Robertson was imploring her husband to take care of her, to which he responded with his usual grace, not to “make a fool of herself”. The young men rushed out and Mr Lee & Mr Townsend went to the wheel. The rest were pale and quiet. One of the steerage was shrieking “hard up” to the man at the wheel while Mr Adams tried to outshriek him in a contrary order. Mama, Grace & I sat still at the table, Mama eating corn and Grace holding my hand. All this was over in a second – and then we saw we had just escaped running in to a fishing vessel anchored in our course. We were going at a flying rate and were just taking a long breath from our alarm when we came on another and another until we had passed a fleet of French fishing vessels. It was very exciting to see them appear first on one hand and then the other out of the fog.

Monday, June 29, 2015

Thursday, June 29th, 1882

Thursday. June 29th At Sea!
80 miles from the Grand Banks. A favorable wind in the early morning – still foggy and cold. Icebergs on the horizon – Miss Smith & I were in bed too late to see them. A five months old child of the carpenter died last night and was buried at 4 P.M. The vessel was hove to, the flag set at half mast and the bell tolled during the reading of the burial service. The child was placed in a little wooden box – usually the dead are sewed up in canvas – to which a heavy weight was attached. The box was placed on a plank and the sailors stood about it. The father and mother just behind. All the steerage passengers crowded about with uncovered heads – and the Capt. near Mr Lee on one side. Then Mr Lee read the service and at the words “give the body to the deep” the plank was raised and the box went down to the sea. The service took place in the waist, to leeward of the main hatch.

In the evening we saw 16 sailing vessels, fishing on the horizon. The sun shone on the sails and they were a remarkably pretty sight. Whist in the evening and lemonade. 

Sunday, June 28, 2015

Wednesday, June 28th, 1882

Wednesday June 28th At Sea!
Wind and rain and fog all night. At 12 o’c we passed a steamer (the Capt. insists it was an iceberg) at a distance of 100 ft. The fog horns blowing. Headwinds. We are off the Grand Banks of Newfoundland and saw a large fishing vessel this morning. Colder weather.

Saturday, June 27, 2015

Tuesday, June 27th, 1882

Tuesday June 27th. Bark Sarah. At Sea.
More squalls and fog and heavy wind all day. We are going towards Newfoundland as fast as we can tear. The fog is very heavy and the weather has been growing colder steadily. Foghorn going.

Friday, June 26, 2015

Monday, June 26th, 1882

Bark Sarah – At Sea!
Monday June 26th.
A squall last evening and two in the night. Miss Smith & I were awake most of the time listening to the whistling of the wind through the rigging. The waves were very high and the sky full of lightening. All day it has blown and squalled. Miss Smith and I have spent the entire day under the tarpaulin which covers the boats on the top of the house. Mr Adams has brought the sails and rigging of his miniature ship for our inspection as his work progressed. Four canaries escaped from their cage and we laughed until we cried to see Mr Lee trying to catch them, tearing up and down the deck at the most absurd angles and putting out his hands only to grasp the air and fall back again.

Thursday, June 25, 2015

June 25th, 1882

June 25th. Barque Sarah. At Sea!
Sunny. Grace’s birthday, 21! A fresh breeze with little motion all the morning, freshening in the afternoon. Ever since Monday we have had a succession of calm days when we had drifted with the current 62 miles a day – until yesterday which was disgustingly rough, a headwind. I spent the day in my bunk, Miss Smith was “enthusiastically ill” and even Mama had qualms of conscience. Before that time the days were alike, Mrs Lee & I have fringed a dozen towels between us. I have offered to assist her on them and she has made me a present of one, proposing that I race the Fayal stitch on it with her and use the same when done for my bureau at home. I have finished Mill on the Floss and begun Chas. Auchester. Every I have learned one of Heine’s poems and every afternoon have read aloud Tristram Shandy to Miss Smith, and we have played Whist and every evening we have sat out until late – on Friday evening until 12 o’c, sitting on the spanker boom watching the sea and stars and moonlight. Mr Moses Bensaude has sung for us several evenings, from the Italian operas and we have had choruses from Townsend, Wallach, Kent. Mr Adams has appeared on deck again, rather subdued but obstinate still, - he has helped me to fringe my towels and to begin rigging a miniature ship. Miss Smith is making the [?] for it. We are both polishing our porpoise jaws. Mr Lee is decorating his sea chair. Mrs Robertson has been taking care of her husband who has had a spree[?] and been in bed for five or six days. Mr Townsend & Mr Lee have been with him at night. The former is Dr. for the steerage and cures all their diseases instantaneously with bread, pills and lemonade gargles. The Jewesses have flourished [?] a l’ordinaire. I have discovered my Flores friend among the steerage passengers. Grace has been in bed three days, Mama is knitting and apparently happy. Mr Kent is reading a mysterious book which he said was “Caesar’s Virgil” in his embarrassment, when I came upon him suddenly and asked what he was reading. Everybody jokes about it. He gives a great deal of gratuitous information about the course of the ship, and the prospect of good winds, etc. Mr Wallach has been snubbed on his whistling and works off his superfluous energy over Sting[?] and climbing to the top gallant mast. The Capt. has ordered a bucket with 6 fathoms rope for me to fish for nautilus and seaweed here in the Gulf Stream. For the past three days we have seen any number of nautilus, seaweed, and jelly fish and six large whales in one day. Jumbo[?] has given orders that we shall have no more “lemonade as a beverage” as he cannot afford to give us water or sugar. Now that he has distinctly told us what we must not have “Dirty Louis” has been promoted to “Lemonade Louis or the Pride of the Pantry” and puts a glass in every one’s room at 9 o’c each night. We have to be very mysterious about it as the Jewesses are prime observers and bear witness against us.

A good joke on the Dr. One of the “beach combers” fell from the rigging and broke his arm. The Dr. put it in splinters and fainted during the operation from exhaustion. Two days after the “beach comber” was [?] the waist. We have about 300 steerage passengers and all day long there is singing and dancing and yelling from them. They lie in the waist. We have all made bets to when we shall get to Boston. I am betting on the 10th or before.

A wind – sail as seen by moonlight 11.30 P.M. Friday, the 23rd from the Spanker boom. Mrs Lee, Miss Smith, Mr Adams, Mr Wallach & I -

The fastidious Grace while ill in bed spent her time washing her waits, straps, etc. and consented to my surprise to take beef tea for breakfast, as I afterwards discovered that she might dry her straps around the cup. Miss Smith & I have had beef tea breakfasts in our bunk at 10 o’c every day. 

Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

Saturday, June 20, 2015

Friday, June 19, 2015

June 19th, 1882

June 19th. Barque Sarah. At Sea!
Silva made 1st mate and John Jordan 2nd mate.

[Note - the journal has a gap in dates. The next journal post will be June 25th. In the interim I will post some art sketches from the journal]

Thursday, June 18, 2015

June 18th, 1882

June 18th. Barque Sarah. At Sea!
7 knots an hour splendid weather – read aloud Tristram Shandy to Miss Smith and have been deep in Mill on the Floss all day. No news from the Adams House.

Wednesday, June 17, 2015

Saturday, June 17th, 1882

Saturday June 17th Barque Sarah. Off Flores.
Miss Smith & I talked until late last night in our bunks and she read the first chap. Of her novel to me before we arose this morning. Then I learned a poem of Heine’s – we had our eggs and toast and were on deck for lunch. We saw them raise some livestock on board, the beef was lifted by ropes tied around their horns – one of them was almost paralyzed with fright, in fact has not moved since he was brought on deck. 50 more steerage passengers came off and a lot of runaways will be on tonight. Weather cool and a head wind. We saw our last of Mr Mackey, his silk hat and umbrella about 5 P.M. and are off for Boston. Mr Adams and the Capt had a fierce encounter this afternoon – the Capt. gave an order which Mr Adams did not hear. The latter yelled “why in H – don’t you speak louder?” The Capt. told him not to use such language – Mr Adams retorted with impudence. The Capt. told him to go to his room and, not appear on deck again until we reach Boston. Mr A. replied he would appear on deck as often as he pleased. We are all very much excited. The Capt. wrote a note to him this evening asking him to write up his log book and settle up his accts. Belaying pins!

Tuesday, June 16, 2015

Friday, June 16th, 1882

Friday. June 16th Barque Sarah. Off Flores.
Learned two of Heine’s poems before breakfast which consisted of two eggs and six slices of bread and butter served to us by Mrs Lee in our bunks. Miss Smith wrote while I studied. When I arrived on deck we were just entering Santa Cruz. Flores looks as beautiful as ever to us. No one but Mr Wallach went on shore. He went off, in the afternoon and came back with a box of figs. He said the flowers were past so that the island is not as pretty as when we were here before. From our ship the lights and shades are very fine. It will always be the most beautiful island to us. We began reading aloud. Miss Smith, Grace & I – Tristram Shandy and I worked on some towels Mrs Lee wished to get through the Custom House without duty. Then Mrs Lee, Miss Smith & I formed “a tripod” on the roof and the Dr & Mr Townsend sang us to sleep.

Monday, June 15, 2015

Thursday, June 15th, 1882

Thursday. June 15th Barque Sarah
Becalmed. In sight of Flores. Summer air and sea like a glass. Miss Smith & I stayed in our bunks until lunch. She is writing a novel, for a philopoena[?] for Mr Dabney. Will read it to me later. She is going to write every morning before breakfast and I am going to learn one of Heine’s poems at the same time. Read a sketch of Mme Scrode Derrient[?]. The evening was superb. A fiery sky and sunset back of Flores & Corvo. A Brigantine, the Kalunia, with salt, bound for St Johns came to us for water. The sun against her sails made her very beautiful. This day has been perfection. We are agreed to be happy if we are becalmed there months in weather like this. Miss Smith read aloud some of Heine’s poems to me in the evening. We ate apricots, plums and oranges all day long. Another porpoise. 

Sunday, June 14, 2015

Wednesday, June 14th, 1882

Wednesday June 14th Barque Sarah
On deck eating oranges, plums and nespras all the evening – a hammock swing for Grace. Miss Smith “enthusiastically ill”. Grace a trifle. Mr Wallach scraping whale’s teeth. Mrs Lee fringing towels, Mr Lee carving the back of his chair, Dr reading Matrimony, the dogs washed. Mama aft knitting. I have begun Mill on the Floss. A mild breeze from 1 to 4 knots an hour. In the afternoon two waterspouts on the horizon. Some one killed a porpoise and we passed a dead whale. The Captain says there are four dishes to be obtained from the porpoise, steak, fishballs, pancakes and peas. The pancakes are found in the brain – the peas are the kidneys. We were out late singing and spinning yarns.

Saturday, June 13, 2015

Tuesday, June 13th, 1882

Tuesday June 13th Barque Sarah
Mr Sanisberry came with Beef Extract for me this morning. We wandered in the Hotel garden and I did some shopping. We came off shore at noon. Grace in the palanquin. All the Dabneys at the wharf to say goodbye. Miss Clara gave Grace some pressed ferns, Miss Roxie brought me some Holy Ghost bread and two of the whale’s teeth. The palanquin was lowered in to the boat. Mr Sanisberry & Mr Herbert D. came aboard and dined with us, and stayed until the Custom House Officers left. Mr S. brought me some fine lemons. We had some last fun and – Horta is gone forever. I have a fearful cold. It was a spectacle to see the farewells of the steerage to their friends on shore. Such weeping and wailing and embracing. We have 183 on board. When I left the Hotel Ann the woman who speaks English, embraced me in true Portuguese fashion a dz [dozen] times over and wept. I rewarded her with my [?]flamme. A lovely view of the sunset reflected on Pico.

Friday, June 12, 2015

Monday, June 12th, 1882

Monday June 12th Fayal Hotel
More shopping and packing. Mr Sanisberry sent me a lovey fiche and brought Grace’s handkercheief. Then he took Grace, Mr Wallach & me for a ride – as Mama says he has been like a brother to me. Mama and I called at the Dabneys. We went to the garden for flowers and I brought away a piece of the island ivy. In the evening Mr S. & Mr D. were [?].

Thursday, June 11, 2015

Sunday, June 11th, 1882

Sunday. June 11th. Fayal Hotel.
To the Calderra! Miss Roxie Dabney, Miss Alice, Mr Herbert, Miss Smith, Mr Sanisberry, Mr Wallach and myself. We met the Dabneys and were delayed an hour by Mr Wallach, who slept until late, so we did not get off until 10 o’c. We had some inexperienced little donkey boys and wrecks of animals. The boys always goaded on the donkeys at the wrong time and we had all sorts of mishaps. The way was the bed of a narrow stream, full of boulders and small stones. Miss Roxie first went over backwards. Mr Herbert would not ride – it was such a stupid brute. Miss Alice thrown – then her animal laid down on his back in a hole. Whenever the boys tried to move him he would kick, the saddle was broken and it was half an hour before he was extricated. Two other donkeys going down at the same time. Finally the road was so bad that we had to give up riding and walk. The distance is 9 miles. The scenery looking back much like the view going up to the Seven Cities tho’ on a somewhat smaller scale and we had the addition of Pico. At the top we fairly shouted with delight – It is one of the most perfect craters to be found. 1700 ft deep and 5 miles around, the sides covered with verdure that resembles the moss on a moss [?] – at the bottom a little lake and in the centre another little crater. Miss Dabney told me she had felt an earthquake on the edge of the crater. We had a delicious lunch which Mr Sanisberry took delight in serving – and Miss Smith then went with him & Mr Dabney to the bottom while the rest of us talked and lounged. Miss Dabney told me the history of her family and a great deal about the island, the old customs, etc. They were English people, a member of the family died off the Islands and so their attention was called to the place. The grandfather was very fond of mild climates and after a year or two in Boston decided to live here for a time. Her father married a Miss Pomeroy and she came out with the intention of staying ten years. The circumstances of the Webster tragedy kept them here and the present family lives here from year to year always talking of going back. Her father was adored by the Portuguese – was a father to them all in generosity and was a very sympathetic, warm-hearted man. He would always listen to everybody’s complaints and trials and pleasures with equal interest. She says that they must always be aliens in spite of having good friends in Fayal on acct of their difference in religion. They cannot do for people as they could if there was not this barrier. Formerly there was some Portuguese society and a great deal of aristocracy in Fayal – but families have been separated and a more common class of people have arisen to fill their places – the manners of the people have deteriorated too. From what she says I imagine the time may come when they will go to the States to live. The Dabneys are intensely patriotic. When Wm James a brother of the [?] was here he said he thought it wonderful how intensely American they were after so many hears of foreign life.

A dense mist filled the calderra at intervals, and then it was beautiful to see the mist dispelled and the calderra appear again. After the party returned who went to the bottom they had athletic sports, jumping over donkey backs, etc. Coming home we turned off the direct path so as to go over the stone bridge at Flamingos and our path from the turn was through fields of broom, with hedges of hygrangias [sic] and wild roses. The donkeys could hardly go along, the path was so narrow, it was a pretty sight, our animals decorated with flowers, filing through the country. We had some tearing canters and got home to find that the Azores was in. Everybody had letters – we had on from Papa. Donkey riding certainly agrees with me for I had a little headache when I started out this morning and came back after 18 miles of it as fresh as new. Mr & Mrs Lee back again.

Wednesday, June 10, 2015

Saturday, June 10th, 1882

Saturday. June 10th Fayal Hotel
Packed this morning and went shopping – met Mr Sanisberry who had just seen Mr DeMello and said the latter was very anxious to know when the Sarah will sail. Mr Sanisberry & Mr Dabney appear at intervals through the day. We were too tired to do any excursion business – In the evening the Dabneys & Miss Smith went to the circus. There was one horse, one mule and a monkey. I went to bed de bonne heure.

Tuesday, June 9, 2015

Friday, June 9th, 1882

Friday June 9th Fayal Hotel.
We hardly moved all night, made 5 miles from 4 o’c until 7 a.m. and anchored at Horta about 11 a.m. Mr Wallach came out in the boat to meet me and Mr Herbert Dabney was on the wharf. I found Grace looking finely. She & Mama have had splendid times. Miss Dabney, Sen. Has been out with Mother every day and Grace has been out frequently in the palanquin. Milly Smith is enthusiastic over everybody and everything. After dinner Mrs Dabney, Miss Alice, Mr Herbert, the maiden aunts and one baby went down to Porta Pim[?] to see a whale cut up. It was not a very large one – not a very pleasant but rather interesting operation. We wandered over to the Dabney’s House and sat on the piazza talking while Grace went on in the palanquin with Miss Dabney & Mr Wallach as escorts. The place at Porta Pim owned by the Dabneys has wide stone floored piazzas and is only one store so it has the appearance of a decidedly Southern house. We came across the beach as the sun was setting and reached home just in time for supper. The walk was lovely. I was with Mrs Dabney & Mr Sanisberry all the way. In the evening we went to the Cardosas, to a party given in honor of the daughter’s “coming out”. I had no party dress but managed by turning in the neck of my white flannel and [continued below]

Books read on Barque Sarah.
The Shadow of the Sword by Robert Buchanan
File No 113 by Gaborian.
Matrimony by W.E. Norris
Mill on the Floss by Geo. Eliot.
Great Singers from Malitran[?] to
Tristram Shandy by Laurence Sterne.
Chas Auchester by E. Berger. Trans.
Bebi[?] by Onida

[continued from above]
Wearing a huge bunch of white roses which Miss Alice Dabney sent me to make a tolerably party like appearance. Mrs Edwards volunteered a fan and shawl and a great deal of jewelry which I refused. She was very much hurt to think Miss Smith & I were going in such simple costumes. The Dabneys came in two carriages. When we arrived at the house we were ushered up stairs to a dressing room where Mrs Cardosa met us. She was very graceful and kind. We went down stairs to the large parlor where there were rows of Portuguese girls with their chaperons seated around the room. In an adjoining room were all the young men and in still another, were the fathers smoking and playing cards. The dining table was loaded with glass and silver, and there was half a dozen men servants about. The Portuguese men were quite fine looking in regular dress suits, the young ladies had the closest kind of full back costumes in light colors and covered with sherrings [sic] and bows and loops. A few of them were very pretty and all were young. It has been a great season for engagements – one girl of 14 was pointed out to us. She looked as old as I. They all looked surfeited with society life. She was engaged. Miss Cardosa came to speak to us, through Miss Rose Dabney, and said it was her greatest affliction that she could not speak to us in English, she would speak to us in French. She wished us to know that she was engaged (16 yrs old) to the son of a Baron, a most insignificant little wretch 16 years old too. A gentleman came in to the room where we were and clapped his hands which was a sign that the dancing was to begin. Then the gentleman came in and took partners for a quadrille. The music was from the piano played first by Miss Cardosa and her lover and then by the guests in turn. The arrangements had evidently been programmed beforehand. Their dances are almost exactly like ours, though they go around without reversing in the round dances in a heavy sort of way. They had quadrilles, polkas, mazarkas, and the waltz. Between the dances the gentlemen left the ladies unless they were relatives. The Portuguese asked the Dabneys our relationship as they knew the gentlemen of the party were cousins or brothers from one sitting together. Everybody thought Mr Sanisberry my brother as we danced together ten or twelve times and we took no pains to indulge them. I danced with a Mr DeMello who is a Portuguese “Uncle Geo”, relative to the Cardosas and pointed out his nieces with great pride. He has been in Cal. is very rich and owns the pink villa back of the clock tower. I was [?] about him. At intervals of an hour refreshment was passed about, cakes on a big waiter and blk [black] & green tea, then cakes and jelly, then wine, etc, sandwiches – We ate a little of everything. This went on until morning. We stayed until 4 o’c and I danced almost every moment. Mr Sanisberry insisted on my waltzing with him to every {?] and waltz and I did so until I danced myself out. When we drove home it was dawn the old moon shining with a dull light and the effect very strange and beautiful. We had a great time rousing Antonio who escorted Miss Smith, Mr Wallch & [?] the Sagao to the dining room in his shirt, as cross as the Furies. I turned in for only two hours sleep. The Portuguese ladies always address each other as “your excellency” or “the lady”, never as you. When very intimate they say “thou”. Their [?] affairs are carried on in a very proper fashion. The young men stand outside the wall and throw flowers to the fair one who sits in the window or on the top of the wall. They never speak to each other. After a few months the gentlemen in dress suit and wht [white] gloves calls on the father and asks for the hand of the daughter. After that the lovers meet in the presence of the mother until the wedding time.

Monday, June 8, 2015

Thursday, June 8th, 1882

Thursday. June 8th. Barque Sarah.
Mr Sanisberry and Dr R. sick all night, from the effect of the water they think. Townsend lame. We did not have wind from 2 P.M. until about 10 o’c when a brisk breeze arose. Pico beautifully clear. Each island of the Azores has one or more small rocks lying at each extremity. We are opposite a Jagg[?] rock belonging to San Jorge. The Veronica in sight, has left Horta bound homewards. The Capt. says that the latest burning crater was on San Jorge. 70 years ago it burst forth destroying an entire village whose church spires sticking out of the ground are the only indications of it now. The cinders and lava look as if the fire was yesterday.

All the evening we played 20 questions – the number on Mr Sanisberry’s watch being the one guessed. Mr Sanisberry & I had wine & crackers & cheese in the cabin and talked until bed time.

Sunday, June 7, 2015

Wednesday, June 7th, 1882

Wednesday. June 7th. Barque Sarah.
A half and half night and to the complete amazement of everybody awoke to find ourselves in a dead calm between Graciosa and San Jorge. Terceira in sight at our rear. We have drifted with the tide – a sapphire blue sea, San Jorge is very long and narrow and rugged near by. We have been in sight of Pico ever since we left St Michaels but have seemed to come no nearer to it. We have been betting as to when we shall get in – each of us taking two hours in the day – mine between 4.30 & 5.30. Mr Adams has taught me the names of the sails. Mr Sanisberry has been raising fun and mischief all day. He read [?] a Chinese Romance in rhymes read by Pauline Piston at the last Literary Club. It was quite bright[?] All calling to me to look out for a school of porpoises ahead. I never saw anything more beautiful than this blue, blue sea with these four misty, pink islands on the horizon – Pico beyond, San Jorge and Fayal just coming into view.

Later. Had a little talk with Mr Sanisberry this evening. He gave me advise about [?], which I was sorry to have needed but shall certainly take. He was in a perfect rage and seemed to know the gossip of the Sarah pretty thoroughly. Mr Townsend hurt his back playing match[?] games.

Saturday, June 6, 2015

Tuesday, June 6th, 1882

Tuesday. June 6th. Barque Sarah.
We hoped to be able to sail early this morning but a load of potatoes failing to arrive we were delayed until nearly six P.M. It was good fun watching the boat loads of sailors and steerage passengers & the dilapidated looking $10. a month Custom House officials about the ship. Mr Sanisberry came aboard at noon and brought me a large Fayal basket of delicious strawberries. We hulled them and made a refrigerator out of a pan of water, and sugared them preparatory to an evening’s spread. After supper we had a game of poker, I holding Mr Adams hand – he won. The usual ad[?]. We had our strawberries, they sang, I took a walk with Mr Adams and to bed in hopes of Fayal tomorrow.

Friday, June 5, 2015

Monday, June 5th, 1882

Monday. June 5th Off Terceira. Barque Sarah.
A warm, lovely day – I lounged on deck all the morning, reading an interesting novel, Matrimony by Norris, talking with Mr Adams and watching the lights and shadows on Terceira. It is a beautiful island, the most beautiful of all. At 3 P.M. we started off for Angra to see a bull-run which takes place there every Monday after Trinity. The entire business portion of the  town was deserted and we went to the back part of the town on a hill where there were crowds, women and children in bright colors seated on the walls, in the gardens and windows and doorways. The streets were full of men and boys, hundreds of them, carrying long poles with round heads, steel tops

It was a gay scene – a great variety of peasant costume and everybody in excitement, - such a scene as could only be found among pleasure loving people, in a Southern Country. Mr Sanisberry, Mr. Eifert and Mr De Castro, the Consul joined us and the latter found a look out for Mrs Robertson and me in a friends house opposite a square. Soon after we seated ourselves amid old dames who tried in vain to talk to us and young ones with gay bandannas, little children not more than five years old addressing each other every minute with “Senorita, Si, Senorita”, and the head of the house who roared like a bull with excitement, the Confuru[?] Fornesca surrounded by a crowd of men in the square and everybody passing – there was a great rushing and down the hillside came the bull who had a long rope attached to him which was carried by a half dozen men – Everybody who did not tear to a shelter rushed at the bull and goaded him with sticks, or beat him or yelled or tried to blind him by throwing white and red cloths in his face. In this way with shouts from the spectators the bull tore through the street for a mile or two, occasionally losing a man, ,coming over a stone wall unexpectedly in to a clump of men who would struggle to get away. Sometimes the brute would stop and look first one way and then another uncertain where to make his plunge and then everybody’s excitement was redoubled. Mrs Robertson was wild for fear her husband would be hurt. There were four runs, different bulls each time and there were long intervals between the runs. It is an aimless sort of sport. The fun is in seeing the people. The bulls were rather dull. This is the only island where bull fights are held and the opening one of the season begins on Thursday. We saw the proprietor of the arena – He had short, tight blue jacket & knee [?}, the former had long loops in the button holes, a round hat with pompoms on the side and a stick with gold mounting on one end and strap on the other. Some of the men had wide red sashes and some had colored handkerchiefs tied over their little caps to keep them on and under their chins. We came back to ship, tired and sleepy, but we stayed up until 10 o’c, talking and singing and imbibing. The steerage passengers were all on deck playing their violas and singing the Portuguese dances.

Thursday, June 4, 2015

Sunday, June 4th, 1882

Trinity Sunday. June 4th Off Terceira. Barque Sarah.
About ten o’c this morning Dr & Mrs R., Mr Townsend, Mr Adams & I took a boat and went ashore. I bought some silk handkerchiefs and Mrs R. & I went to one of the churches while the men were off in search of horses & carriage. The church we visited was the prettiest I have seen in the islands – Azorean – One church here is like another – but in this one, the gilding was duller and the work rather good, the coloring [?], the proportions of the building better – there were some tolerable paintings too. The service was just beginning and there were people coming in constantly – a great many fine looking men who might be mistaken for New Yorkers or Englishmen. Angra has an air of enterprise and a more cosmopolitan appearance than any town we have seen except Ponta Delgada. The are putting up new buildings and renovating the streets and laying out a little park. We noticed that the power class of men wear a pair of linked buttons in their shirts very pretty in design, gold like this

We tried to find some but could not. The gold work comes from Lisbon and the silver filaque[?] work also. The men wear their pants so very long that they come to the ground in the back –

The Dr., Mr Townsend & Mr Adams found some fine riding horses and Mrs Robertson & I were astonished at being put in to a regular New England “carry-all”. The driver knew so little of driving that he could not turn the carriage without getting out and turning it around with his hands, and Mr Eifert (a German whom Sanisberry introduced to use, having business in the Islands – we met him at the Luso) whom we took in as interpreter had not enough spirit to manage the man. He was as obstinate as a mule, determined to make us go as he wished and we were dragged up and down hill through the environs of Angra, at a gallop, expecting to be upset every minute. Mr Adams was in advance racing with Mr Townsend who tried to cross his pathway going around a corner. Mr Adams foot caught in the stonewall, he was thrown off and fell on his hand bruising it severely. He suffered terribly and could get no relief from the bottle of hand[?] the Dr. poured on it. We went to the Hotel Terceirinse[?] for dinner and met Mr Sanisberry there. We had some head given t us at one of the Holy Ghost’s feasts and with that fried eggs and cheese we managed to keep ourselves alive. We could not eat the cabbage soup and other Portuguese dishes. Mr Adams hand troubled him so that we decided to come back to Sarah. The Captain had ordered some dinner saved for us so we had our regular ship rations, Plum-duff included. I vowed a vow not to go on shore again if possible with the same noisy crowd again. We sat out on  deck until late talking and singing and drinking lemonade. My appetite is something enormous. The Dr. is the only one who can begin to keep up to it.

Wednesday, June 3, 2015

Saturday, June 3rd, 1882

Saturday June 3rd Off Terceira Barque Sarah.
Heard the name of my adored Pico early this morning so tumbled out to fine her on the horizon, towering above the clouds and snow capped. San Jorge was visible at the same time and later Terceira. We had a change of wind at noon and sailed in to Terceira just before supper. I have slept on deck nearly all day and eaten oranges at intervals. A lovely evening. We are near enough to shore to hear the land birds and the June freshness is delightful to see. We watched a beautiful sunset from the top of the house and Mrs Robertson, Mr Adams and I sat there until 10 o’c watching the stars and moon come out and the fireworks on shore. It is still a feasting time here. 

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Friday, June 2nd, 1882

Friday June 2nd Barque Sarah.
I awoke this morning, supposing myself happy and before I finished dressing learned the inconstancy of earthly bliss: I retired to the bumpkin aft until Mr Adams carried me by main force to the waist and there I sat all day long, utterly wretched. I could hardly hold my head up. Mrs Robertson & Townsend shared my misery and the Jewesses were in the last stage. Have been beating against headwinds all day with no apparent progress. “Who would sell a farm and go to sea”, Have existed on Dr Robertson’s beef, tea and oranges. Robertson & Townsend are looking over the ropes and [?] them.

Monday, June 1, 2015

Thursday, June 1st, 1882

Thursday June 1st “Barque Sarah”
A shopping expedition on donkey back this morning and at 11 o’c I came aboard ship. The Captain’s Jewesses are here, and a Portuguese, Bensaude with sick son. Two staterooms have been built in the waist since we left. The boat has been painted and is in fine shape. Mr Adams has my wine. I am to have Mama’s room to Fayal and Townsend takes mine. Kent stays at Ponta Delgada, “thank God for so much” as Silva says as the steerage passengers came up late. Dr & Mrs Robertson & Mr Townsend & I sat in the waist after supper and I walked with Mr Adams until late. A full moon. The table is much better than when we came over, tender beef and well cooked and better bread and fresh water.

Sunday, May 31, 2015

Wednesday, May 31st, 1882

Wednesday. May 31st Ponta Delgada.
At 8 o’c this morning we started in carriage for the Seven Cities in a rain – Mr Kent & Mr Lee were kept busy for the first five or six miles reefing and letting go the back of our carriage. The road lay along the sea, a smooth wide road and on cliff’s five or six hundred ft high. The houses & farms at the bottoms looked like pigmy life. The ruins were very fine. At the end of a two hour carriage ride we met donkeys of the worst possible description with a villainous looking old man, a wicked boy and a fascinating fez and with the eyes of Miss Smith’s Flores boy. The latter devoted himself to me. Then we followed a good mountain road through clumps of houses perched on the very edge of chasms, way up higher and higher where looking back we could see great furrowed hills rising one after another behind us – covered only with heather and at the very top where the train ran on the edge of tremendous precipice we saw the glorious sight – as wonderful as any-thing I have ever seen in my life of the wondrously beautiful mountain folding against each other and the great ocean at their feet – on the other side the crater with La Grande Lagra and La Lago Azul – of almost gen d’arme blue, the smoke of the charcoal burners rising from the mountains and such mountains! There was a genuine volcano before us in all its weird, strange beauty! We saw some very lovely cedar trees and as we went to the bottom of the crater which is called the Seven Cities (we could find no reason for the name) a flaming red rhododendron like one I saw at the Magnolia Gardens near Charleston. The road going down was shady and winding and precipitous. The donkeys insisted on walking as near the edge as possible and I was in agony much of the way. Down the ravines on either side were masses of large ferns. At the bottom are some little villages of squalid houses whose inhabitants seemed to make washing a regular business. There were miles of clothes out to dry on trees and rocks on the border of the lake and the swampy land which abounds there. We found water lilies. We crossed the bridge which divides the two lakes of the crater and on a shady slope took our dinner. The donkey men were very amusing. They begged for everything we carried from cigars to shawls & Mr Lee’s [?]. Tobacco is their greatest delight – and “the villain” beseeched Mr Kent for a cigarette, on his knees clasping Mr Kent’s knees and praying to him by turn – which all the time the old wretch, as it turned out had some in his own pocket. The wicked boy was smart and wanted the phrase book. He gave us lessons in Portuguese & we returned the compliment in English – Half of the charms of our trip here would be lost if we could speak Portuguese. Our struggles over the language and the attempts of the Portuguese, who are very clever, to extricate use add to the charm of this new life. The weather cleared off charmingly by long before we reached the Seven Cities and we came home 5 o’c hardly tired with our day’s jaunt though covered with fleas. Mrs Lee & I took a nap and after tea went shopping – Mrs Lee is very homesick and blue tonight. I have decided to go back to Horta as Mama expects me by Sarah. She wished to go too but Mr Lee is bound to go to the Furnas. The latter is the only thing worth seeing in the Islands according to the universal admin, Dr Robertson. It is full of boiling springs of different kinds. I feel perfectly satisfied with what I have seen already – One can not take in everyting and so I am ready to go back to Horta which I love. The other islands have been simply curiositys [sic] – Fayal is our home. St Michaels is a much finer country however.

Saturday, May 30, 2015

Thursday, May 30th, 1882

Tuesday. May 30th Pinhuris[?], Ponta Delgada St Miguel [sic]
I prepared myself for a battle with the rats last night, placing all eatable articles such as my hat with feathers on it, one rubber s[?] with lace border in the top berth so that the beasts might have a feast without coming near me. I took my big umbrella in my berth so as to defend myself if necessary and put a rubber on the floor to throw at them – then stayed awake an hour waiting for the enemy who failed to come at all and I slept soundly only dimly hearing the boom of the gun which announced our arrival at Ponta Delgada. St Michaels is a large island and has more open harbor than the others; Ponta Delgada runs along the shore with high and large buildings. As the sunset last evening on Terceira I changed my mind with regard to it – it seemed as beautiful as Fayal and very similar – Ponta Delgada is a city of 20,000 inhabitants with imposing residences, public buildings, hospitals, theatre, churches, etc. and the resident portion of the place full of very large and beautiful gardens. The churches have Gothic towers and many of the houses square towers on top, sometimes a little at one side which gives the city a very different appearance from any other town we have seen among the Islands. We saw our first occupied Convent here, a large high square building, with wooden closed blinds and iron gratings over them. There seems less originality or rather fewer Azorean characteristics here than elsewhere – probably owing much to the size of the city and that so many English live here. We saw some English carriages in the streets. The only new sight was a cap worn by the men like this

and the women’s Capotes were hooked in front drawing the hood close about the face – in other respects like those worn on Fayal. We saw some hoes which have short handles always. The climate seems much more dry, clear, cool and bracing than Fayal. [?]. Mrs Lee and I went to walk in the afternoon alone and through the business portion of the town. Wherever we went the men came to the shop doors with insolent looks and stared and laughed. There are no good manners here, and the people have none of the simplicity that we saw at Flores & Fayal. We have seen the islands in the right way – the primitive Flores coming first, then going from Fayal & Terceira to cosmopolitan Ponta Delgada. Our boarding house, Mrs Brown’s is a fine old country place, with large rooms and every possible comfort – and a flower garden in front. There is a little chapel connected with the house which once belonged to a wealthy family. It bears the date 1725. We took a late breakfast there and found Dr & Mrs Robertson & Mr Townsend. The Browns are English people, a widow with [?] son and pretty daughter. We have an excellent table, in boarding house fashion & with beautiful glass, china & linen. Mrs Lee & I have a room together until the rest of Sarah’s passenger’s leave. There is besides a Miss Howell whom Mr Sanisberry spoke of as travelling everywhere alone and being eccentric. She is a great admirer of Bradlaugh – after breakfast we went to Antonio Broges garden very near the Browns, a very extensive place, laid out with artificial gr[?], s[?], walks, etc., greenhouses, etc. There are a great variety of plants and trees. It is like a tropical public park. The ferns are fine and the different variety of palms is wonderful, but there was not the real beauty of the Dabney garden. The gardens of St Michaels are considered among the finest in the world –

In the evening we played Whist with Miss Howell – 

It is very improper for a lady to go in the street alone here and I imagine somewhat unsafe. Kent says “this beats the world”.